a woman and for the second time, Bodhi tells Johnny that Tyler is “a wild one.” Later, Bodhi and his crew are sitting around a campfire with Johnny and Tyler, and they discuss the relationship between surfing and mortality.

These four men begin ‘peacocking’ – each trying to sound more knowledgeable and experienced than the other, and each trying to sound more willing to die doing what they love. Bodhi states his belief in the “50 year storm,” and his intention to be at Bell’s Beach in Australia the following year when it arrives. Tyler repeatedly skewers their romanticism, however, bringing reality back into the circle and their egos back to Earth. She announces that “big wave riding’s for macho assholes with a death wish.” When Roach declares that surfing is...

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